Expert Article

Surfing

Everything you need to know

The sun is shining, the water is warm, and the waves are pumping. It’s time to go surfing! Have no clue where to go or what to bring? Most people don’t. There are a number of things that go into each surf session to make it an optimal experience.

Surfing has existed all around the world for centuries. However, surfing is most notable in Hawaii. It has been instilled in their culture since the Polynesians first made their way to the Hawaiian Islands from Tahiti. Duke Kahanomoku is one of the most famous surfers of all time, known for starting the first surf club in Honolulu. Hawaii is the birthplace of many past and current world champions. It is one of the few places that has waves year round with incredible conditions. For many people in Hawaii, it is a part of their daily routine. Although Hawaii can be a great place to surf, many locals despise the h’aoles (mainlanders) and can become very hostile in the water. This brings me to describe everything that goes into surfing, including avoiding the territorial locals.

 

Duke Kahanamoku Statue (above) located in Honolulu, Hawaii.

Sometimes surfing is not as easy as putting on your bathing suit, grabbing your board, and jumping in the water. Many different variables go into surfing that the common person would not know. Things such as the size of the waves, temperature of the water, and knowledge of surfing etiquette play a role in having an enjoyable experience while surfing.

Size of the Waves

Although common sense does play a major role in determining if the waves are the right size for you, many overestimate their abilities and end up in an undesirable position. Waves can range from one foot to over one hundred feet high. Now of course, if you are a beginner, it is ideal to have a much smaller more friendly type of wave. Many beaches offer smaller easier waves to surf. Most beaches in Southern California never get waves over ten feet and usually have very sporadic swell. You can check websites such as Surfline that tell you the different surf breaks and their current conditions.

Temperature of the Water

The temperature of the ocean varies with the seasons due to the different directions waves come from. Summertime brings in warm water with the swells coming from the equator, while the winter brings in very cold water coming from the north. For the average person, water over seventy degrees is ideal and can be bearable in a bathing suit. However, during the winter months the water can dip well into the fifties, which requires you to wear a wetsuit in order to be comfortable. Without a wetsuit you should not even consider surfing during the winter. Once again, you can obtain the oceans temperature on Surfline.

Surfing Etiquette

This is probably the most important part of having an enjoyable surfing experience. Common courtesy goes a long way while surfing in a place you are not from. Many locals regardless of where you are can be very territorial and if not treated with respect can get very angry and even confrontational at times. As a beginner you should avoid places that have large numbers of people in the water. You want to isolate yourself in your own space while trying to learn to avoid affecting other people’s waves. However, sometimes this is difficult to avoid, in which case you should follow some of these guidelines.

• ·      First, never drop in on another surfer. This means that if someone is already on the wave, do not try to catch it. It puts both of you at risk of crashing into each other and also ruins the wave for the other person.
• ·      Next, whoever is closest to the peak of the wave has the right of way. The peak is the tallest part of the wave and usually is the best place to be. Most experienced surfers will catch the wave at its highest point, but as a beginner it may be better to catch the waves at a smaller point.
• ·      Alongside that, avoid ditching your board at all costs. Ditching your board creates a danger not only to people on the wave, but also to people who are paddling behind you. It also makes it more difficult to get past the whitewash because you will have to continually retrieve your board.
• ·      Finally, always paddle around the waves and yield to the surfer on the wave. The person who is riding the wave is more capable of avoiding you while you are paddling. Pick a direction and the surfer will go the opposite way.

If you follow these simple guidelines of surfing etiquette, you are guaranteed to have a much better experience.

Surfing has many benefits to your health as well. Not only does it test your cardiovascular fitness, it is a great workout for you shoulders and back due to the tough paddling. Surfing is also a great way to relieve stress and tension. The ocean is an unbelievably peaceful place that allows you to think about things in your life, without the distraction of other people.

On a final note, never be too hard on yourself or get discouraged, remember to always have fun!

 Work Cited

“HISTORY OF SURFING IN HAWAII.” History Of Surfing In Hawaii, www.discover-oahu.com/history-of-surfing-in-hawaii.html.

“Inside the Curl: Surfing's Surprising History.” National Geographic, National Geographic Society, 4 Aug. 2013, news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2013/08/130803-surfing-surprising-history-hawaiian-culture-extreme-sports/.

“Surfing Etiquette: 5 Surf Rules Everyone Should Know.” Witch's Rock Surf Camp, witchsrocksurfcamp.com/surfing-etiquette-5-surf-rules-everyone-must-know/.

“Surfing or Life.” SURFING FOR LIFE -- History of Surfing, www.surfingforlife.com/history.html.